For those of you that have been with me for a while may remember my first post on this DIY Edison Bulb Pallet Headboard; well, this is my latest update to that project! The DIY Pallet Headboard… 2.0!
Reclaimed Wooden Pallet | Bookcase (2ct)
9” 2×4 (10ct) | 72” 2×4 (1ct) | 12” 2×4 (2ct)
Hanging Lights (3 Pack)/(2 Singles)
Bulb 1 | Bulb 2 | Bulb 3 | Bulb 4 | Bulb 5
Dimmer Switch | Black Screws
Long Pipe (to fit length of pallet you use)
90° Elbow (2ct) | 1.5in Pipe (2ct) | Floor Flange (2ct)
Chevron Pillowcase | Deer Pillowcase | Geometric Pillowcase
I had no idea that this headboard was going to get a revamp but I did a little rearranging in my bedroom, optimized some space, and added a desk. When I did that I rotated my bed 90° so instead of running parallel to the wall, the head of the bed is now more traditionally positioned against the wall as opposed to sideways ‘day bed’ style. In doing this rotation of the bed I had to move the bookcases to the sides instead of behind against the wall. My initial feeling towards doing this was largely apprehensive, thinking that the bookcases would intrude into to the rest of the room and seem out of place. Quite the opposite happened in all honesty; the bookcases frame the bed and give it a little cubbyhole feel that I adore. And seeing as I’m still young, sharing an apartment, and don’t have multiple rooms to spread my belongings all about a large home, having all these shelves next to my bed is so amazingly convenient! Everything is just soooo accessible both when I’m in bed and when I’m just hanging out in my room working.
In rotating the bedframe, I also lost the support base that was originally holding up the pallet headboard so I had to rethink how I’d manufacture a new one. In order to optimize space at the foot of my bed, I wanted to have the head of the mattress flush against the wall. In doing this I needed to raise the pallet headboard up away from where my head would be when I sleep. I played around with different ideas on how to accomplish this but ultimately decided on cutting up a simple 2×4 and staining/painting it to match. For the supports of each bookcase I cut 9” length 2×4 pieces, stacked them 5 pieces high, and screwed those together to form one block. I then used one long 2×4 cut to 72” to stretch across connecting the two bookcases and create the base for the pallet headboard to rest on. As the bookcases are white, I painted the short boards to match and measured off 9” on each end of the long board and painted those ends white to coincide. I stained the middle section to correspond with the stained wood of the pallet headboard and I have to say the coordination works perfectly! None of the edges or contrast in colors jump out at my eye but instead all work seamlessly together.
Once the support base was ready, I added the side braces to keep the pallet from falling forward. As I mentioned in my first post about this project I do my best to limit the amount of damage I do to the walls. Therefore, rather than screwing each book case and the pallet headboard separately to the wall, I attached them all together as one piece and only had to attach one bookcase for security instead of all three. The side braces I made are not pictured, but like the support base, I stained and painted them to correspond with the white bookcase and stained pallet headboard. Essentially behind the end of each bookcase on the side closest to the pallet headboard, I screwed a 12” piece of 2×4 that rotates down into the interior gap of the pallet on each end (4.5” painted white / 7.5” stained). Having these braces on either side very securely hold the pallet headboard in place without attaching it to the wall. Doing this also connected all three structures and really brings a solid stance to the framework.
Before placing the pallet headboard on the support base and securing with the side braces, you’ll need to put together the pipes, elbows, and floor flanges. Center on pallet to desired height and screw into place (seeing as I use mine as a headboard, I wanted the lights to be relatively high). Again I lucked out and in rotating my bed the pallet fit perfectly even when rotated 90° to its side (unlike how it was when I originally made this DIY Headboard) It was so easy to turn the pallet, remove the galvanized steel parts and rotate. Goes to show the versatility of this project and how you can modify it to fit your specific needs! I doubt you’ll be able to tell but on the left side of the pallet I actually had to add another board to make it fit perfectly and finish up the end (as it is a reclaimed pallet the last board was broken and partly missing)
And then it’s just as simple as wrapping your lights around and feeding the wires behind. I plugged all of mine into one power strip so that way I could control all of them with one switch rather than five individual switches. I also added a dimmer to have absolute control over the brightness as I fall asleep, it works great to dim them the more tired I get. Another added bonus is that the more lowly the bulbs are lit, the easier (and prettier) it is to see the filaments!
Another addition I made for this revamp was placing the three pillows along the top. I love having a fun, random, and eclectic assortment of pillow cases. They are such an easy (and cheap) way to add little design touches. My take on this design was to place the deer antler bust in the middle surrounded by the more linear geometric/chevron patterns. It’s my mod urban take on if I were to mount an actual stuffed deer. And the different patterns almost look picturesque as I’m sure framed artwork would look great running along the top as well! Placing something up there just lengthens the whole structure and adds even more perceived height to the room.
I loved this DIY Pallet Headboard the first go round and am obsessed with it even more now that I’ve made these modifications! Hit me up with any questions about the project or feedback you have! Happy building!